Hot Days on the Overlander’s Way
The stretch from Cloncurry to Charters Towers came with a warning label: bring patience and a sense of humour. We set off down the Overlander Way under a sun that felt personal, the kind that follows you across the sky. Temperatures hit 41°C, and even the horizon seemed to shimmer in protest.
We stopped for morning tea in Julia Creek, but the famous artesian baths didn’t tempt us. Forty dollars for a 45-minute soak, or an Instagram photo, felt a bit rich for a couple of road-weary travellers. So we stretched our legs, enjoyed morning tea at the local cafe, and pressed on, laughing that maybe we were turning into tight arses after all. We did check out the RV camp just out of town, but the heat and Neil’s perpetual fear of snakes saw us continue down the road.
By the time we rolled into Richmond, the heat was still relentless. We parked by the lake and called it home for two nights, spending most of our time doing very little, just trying to stay cool. Kronosaurus Korner looked interesting, but forty dollars a head was again enough to send us back to the lake (and Neil to the pub) with a cold drink. We might be becoming frugal, but the shade and a swim felt just as rewarding.
One morning, before the temperature climbed into the forties, we wandered over to the Cambridge Downs Heritage Display Centre in Richmond. The building itself is a full-scale replica of a 19th-century homestead, built from local stone, and it’s beautifully done. Inside, there’s a small but fascinating collection of artefacts, old photographs, and stories from the early pastoral days.
The next stretch, through Hughenden, offered more of the same: flat, open cattle country and a sun that didn’t quit. The thermometer dropped to a mere 38 degrees, which we took as a small win. By then, Zoe was restless and dreaming of grass under her paws instead of her bed under the air conditioner.
We limped into Charters Towers late in the day, one tyre slowly deflating, the pressure monitor beeping like a trapped cicada, and three slightly cranky travellers ready for a cold drink and cooler weather. But that’s life on the road, not every day brings waterfalls or perfect campsites. Sometimes it’s just dust, heat, and a reminder that adventure isn’t always glamorous. Perhaps we will come back this way when the weather is cooler, and it will feel completely different.
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Julia Creek, Richmond and Hughenden
These three small towns sit along the Overlander Way, connecting the outback with the coast. Each has its own rhythm — Julia Creek with its artesian baths and small-town charm, Richmond with its lake and dinosaur history, and Hughenden, a classic outback service town surrounded by cattle country. Together, they make up one of Queensland’s most iconic inland drives, offering glimpses of life lived far from the coast.
How to Get There
The Overlander Way runs from Cloncurry to Townsville, stretching over 1,500 kilometres of wide, open road. Julia Creek lies 138 kilometres east of Cloncurry, Richmond another 148 kilometres beyond that, and Hughenden about 115 kilometres further on. The road is sealed and easy to navigate, though some sections can be rough — and long.
What to See, Tours and Activities
What we did:
Julia Creek – Stopped for morning tea, admired the landscape, and moved on before we melted.
Richmond – Camped by the lake for two nights, swimming, reading, and watching the world go by.
Hughenden – Stopped for a break, stretched our legs, and pushed on towards cooler weather.
Other highlights you might explore:
Julia Creek Artesian Baths – Private tubs overlooking the plains (bookings essential).
Kronosaurus Korner (Richmond) – A fossil museum showcasing prehistoric marine reptiles.
Flinders Discovery Centre (Hughenden) – Local history, fossils, and information on the region’s geology.
The Overlander Way Drive – A classic Queensland route linking the inland to the reef.
When to Visit
The cooler months (April to September) are best for travelling this route. Summer brings fierce heat, heavy storms, and road mirages that make you question reality. If you’re visiting in the warmer months, start early, carry plenty of water, and don’t expect to move fast.
Final Thoughts
This leg of the journey reminded us that not every stop is a postcard moment, sometimes the stories come from the challenges. Between the heat, the endless road, and the occasional bout of frugality, we found laughter and resilience. Out here, that’s worth more than any photo.
What’s Nearby
Before setting out on the Overlander Way, we spent time in Cloncurry, soaking up its history and red-dirt charm. From Hughenden, the road carried us east toward Charters Towers, chasing cooler air, a working tyre, and maybe a cold drink to toast the miles behind us.
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A 2010 camping trip with my dad into the outback: Mungo’s Walls of China, the Birdsville Track cut by a flooded Cooper Creek, the government punt, and Lake Eyre holding water. The trip that started everything.